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Yusen Hu™


Works
  1. Side Table
  2. Jean Cap
  3. Decks Chair
  4. CYLINDERS
  5. Hang for Fun lamp
  6. Emotion Breaker stool
  7. Reverse Grind table


Blog
  1. Ceramic ashtray
  2. Shoes Rack
  3. Jean Wallet

  4. The Emotional Utilitarian

  5. Design Museum

  6. Christo early works Exhibition

  7. Numeric Skate Demo

  8. The British Museum

  9. Pitt rivers Museum

  10. Flax craft central
  11. Kate lecture
  12. LCC stiching tutorial

  13. BOX by Max Lamb

  14. Sheila Hicks: infinite potential

  15. Instagram viewing 1
  16. V&A Museum
  17. CCW MA graduation exhibition
  18. Scarf knitting
  19. Natural History Museum
  20. Tate Morden Museum
  21. The British Museum 2
  22. The Egyptian Museum
  23. Banksy Exhibition
  24. Tea table
  25. Cap making
  26. Unit 1 exhibition
  27. Remake shoes
  28. Antony Gormley Exhibition
  29. Tate Britain
  30. Newspaper Ceramic
  31. Aromatherapy tray
  32. Kettle’s Yard
  33. Paper samples for unit 2
  34. The Fitzwilliam Museum
  35. How to analyze the case
  36. Woodcuts
  37. Collect 2024
  38. Ceramic extrusion
  39. Tony’s cardboard space
  40. Tony’s tour London
  41. Ceramic London 2024
  42. Wheel-throw learning
  43. CSM shows 2024
  44. Tony’s tour East London
  45. Portland Carving tour
  46. FUMI Casa al mare
  47. Silicone Molding in summer break
  48. London Transportation Museum
  49. Dongyang Chinese furniture market
  50. Prototype redoing for previous work
  51. Jingdezhen visiting
  52. London Design Festival 2024
  53. Hang for Fun lamp
  54. Emotion Breaker stool
  55. Reverse Grind table


Yusen
Info
Previous works by Yusen have delved deeply into themes of functionality, sustainability, and humanization. Yusen’s practice highlights a curiosity about cultural influences and their potential to inform modern design approaches, blending cultural resonance with innovative environmental solutions.
Mark

24. Tea table
Object to object




Regarding the first piece of Object to Object, the one I want to respond to is the Hay Crate side table designed by Gerrit Rietveld. Then use the scrap board to make it. This is in line with the direction I want to research, sustainable design.

The first step was to remove the griptape. This step took me about an hour and a half to remove the griptape from 8 boards. When blowing the heat gun, do not blow it vertically, otherwise the hot air will blow on you. It needs to be blown at an angle and not for too long, because blowing for too long will melt the griptape . Blow about 30cm in one go and you can just tear it off. If you blow too much, it will easily cool down early.                        
After the griptape is removed, there will still be a layer of glue left on the surface, so the next step is to remove the glue from the surface. At first I used oil and a cloth to remove it by wiping it off, which was slow and messy. The next day I bought adhisive remover, sprayed it on and waited for 10 minutes for the chemical reaction, and finally used a shovel to remove the jelly-like glue. The total time spent after the improvement is almost 20 minutes. This operation needs to be done outdoor.


Because the skateboard is curved in both directions. So in order to reduce the impact of this arc, I followed the advice of the YouTuber Wody Design and cut the skateboard into several shapes shown in the hand drawing.

In order to better bond the decks, I sanded each decks to remove the wax and roughen the surface. Then I tried different permutations to see which one was more suitable, and finally I chose the random arrangement. It takes half of a day.

I glued all the wood pieces in batches, 4-5 at a time and all at once. The first gluing took a long time, almost an afternoon. The second time was about less than an hour. The waiting time for bonding will be approximately 1 and a half hours. Later I found out that actually in order to make it more stable, I should glue it in three times, the first time 4-5 blocks, the second time 3-4 bigger blocks, and the third time all glued together. And there must be enough glue so that it doesn't dry out without clamping.

Later, the wooden block broke many times due to my early operating errors. I also made the mistake of gluing the wood, I put a heavy weight on it and when the glue was completely dry, the block and table were glued together. I should have removed the weight while the glue was still wet. Moreover, the clamp is not better the harder it is. Too much force will cause the wooden block to shift.

Then I cut the big block into 5 smaller blocks that I measured before. But one was broken because of the gluing error. The one was abandoned. Then I glued the blocks in designed shape to become the topsurface of table. Actually, it was the second time that I did this step. For the first time, because I glue the first block and the third block at first, so finally, I found that when I want to glue the middle one, I found that they were not in parallel. So I have to sew the underneath block off and redo it. Before gluing the tabletop, the best way is to sand the surface smooth so that the gaps can be reduced.

In order to make the tabletop smooth, I first used traditional sanding methods. Fix the tabletop and use a belt sander tool to sand it. Use a level to see which parts need to be sanded. Because my height error was relatively large, this method was too slow and not necessarily completely flat. But through this method I learned traditional ways of sanding and fixing objects. I was surprised that the fixed wooden blocks were screwed directly to the wooden table. 

Later, I used the CNC machine to make the tabletop plane. It is really fast and took only 1 hour. To further polish it, I still need to sand it with belt sand tool. Then, I cut the edges to make it smooth with bench sewing machine.

I jointed the legs with triangle blocks, screws and glue. I don't think I'm right at this step. The pieces of wood that help join should be rectangular. When I used screws to connect the triangular wooden blocks, the table legs shifted because the force was applied obliquely. The pieces broke again before joining them, so next time I should slap on structurally reinforcing boards as soon as possible after gluing, like the one in the middle.

Finally, I sanded the table top further and oiled it. When I wipe, I shoud wipe against the grain so that there will not be oil trace left. I should have vacuumed up all the dust before applying oil.

Through this desktop production, I finally got a rough idea of how much time it would take me to make a finished product using abandoned decks.
Mark

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